Civil War Period - Footwear

Due to the lack of good footwear in the hobby I’ve started to build my own shoes a few years ago. After several tries to come close to the shape of the Civil War period shoes I now have lasts (wooden molds over which the shoe is formed) which are exclusively made for me, that give the shoe the correct period fashion tapered toe shape and the correct shoe form. This is clearly visible if you compare my shoes with the common Pakistan or Mexican made shoes in the sutlers row. My shoes are made of vegetable tanned leather, flesh side out. The uppers are usally machine-stitched which was common in those days.

I can hand-stitch them on special order. The uppers are finished with an authentic wax mixture which gives them a shiny appearance.

During the Civil War the following construction methods were used for assembling shoes, i. e. the way the uppers and soles were connected with each other.

1. The welted shoe: This shoe was completely hand-stitched as required by the Ordnance Manual. Welted shoes were preferred by the government. Then came machine-stitched shoes and after that pegged shoes.

2. The machine-stitched shoe: Just before the outbreak of the Civil War the Blake-stitcher was invented and saw heavy usage during the conflict. This machine enabled the connection of the shoe upper, upper insole and lower insole in one working step.The outer sole is sewn on by hand. The stitching is visible! CW sewn shoes barely had the stitching inserted in the sole as can be seen on existing unissued originals.

3. The wooden pegged shoe: These shoes were made hand-pegged (each peg was driven in by hand) and machine-pegged.

Although nearly exclusively seen on reenacments the pegged shoe was not as common as many reenactors might think. Three of five pairs of shoes were stiched. That means only around 40% were pegged. Most pegged shoes were issued in the west. The Philadelphia Depot did not issue a single pair of pegged shoes, but 3.231.647 pairs of stitched shoes.

The pegged shoes I make have at least one peg every 5 mm with a single layer sole and a double row of pegs. The heels are attached with authentic square shoenails (cutnails) every 5 mm a nail. The arch/instep can be reinforced with brass soling/clinching nails as is sometimes seen on originals. I will attach heelplates on special order. In this case I will nail a piece of sole leather within the rim of the heelplates to prevent clay sticking up under the heel. The attachment of solenails/ hobnails is also possible on special order. I usally make the shoes in size 39 (American 5 ) to 47 (American 13 ).

From size 45 (12) on an extra fee of 10 Euro is charged for large size.

All prices in Euro.

S1

brogans: handmade brogans with one row wooden pegged (hand pegged) sole (every 5mm one peg) single layer sole, black waxed flesh leather, very authentic in shape and workmanship; without heelplates

pair 145,00

S1a

dito machine pegged with two rows pegged sole and single layer sole

pair 135,00

S1b

dito machine pegged , two rows of pegs and 1 1/2 layer sole

pair 147,00

S1c

dito machine pegged with 2 line wooden pegged sole and double layer sole

pair 155,00

S2

brogans: welted, hand-stitched sole, as stated in the regulations; without heelplates

pair 225,00

S3

brogans: machine-stitched, hand stitched sole; without heelplates

pair 168,00

S4

attaching heelplates as stated above

pair 14,00

S5

attaching hobnails to the soles

per pair 10,50

S6

heelplates: different sizes, simple shape, to be nailed to the heel pair

5,50

S7

heelplates: flat pattern ( to be screwed on top of the heel)

pair 8,00

S8

authentic shoe blackening: comes in a tin with period lable

10,00

S9

Wellington-boots: machine-stitched, two piece construction, slightly higher and rounded in the front. These boots are of the pattern issued by the government to mounted troops (cavalry and light artillery). The boots are only calf high because they were ment to be worn under the trousers.

The 1 1/2 layer sole is machine pegged with two rows of pegs. The halfsole can be attached as midsole or outer sole.

The instep is reinforced with brass soling nails

310,00

Jan Henrik Berger • Bentingstr. 10 • D-49477 Ibbenbüren • Phone +49 (0) 5451 / 742 95 • Fax +49 (0) 5451 / 896 331 • eMail: J.H.Berger@lederarsenal.com