Sorts of leather

The period definintions of leather differ from those commonly used today. To help guide you in choosing the proper leather type for your impression, I’ve included a short list of leather definitions and descriptions. It’s important to remember that some period leathers are very difficult to come by today. For instance, real oak tanned leather is only available as sole leather today in Germany.

1. bridle leather = vegetable tanned (combined with synthetic tannic acids)
2.5 mm to 3.5 mm thick

2. harness leather = dito, but 4 mm+ thick

3. waxed flesh/upper leather = bridle leather finished and waxed on the fleshside, this was made to present a similar appearance to buff leather and to preserve the leather. The term „upper leather“ derives from the usage of this kind leather for uppers of shoes and boots.

4. buff leather = oil tanned leather which is very durable and pliable, the grain side is slightly ground like the original. Buff leather is naturally of a slight white/yellow color.

5. sole leather = oak tanned leather for shoe soles. It was also used for Confederate saddle girths.

Buff leather was „the” leather for waist belts, cartridge box belts and bayonet frogs at the outbreak of the Civil War. Because buff leather was (and is) expensive to pro-duce, there was a great shortage at the beginning of the Civil War. This is the reason why the government allowed the arsenals and the contractors to use upper leather for these items from 1862 untill 1864. From 1863 on bridle leather was also used for accoutrements.

In 1864 the supply of buff leather was large enough again. This is the reason why we find infantry waist belts made of buff leather with brass keepers. Brass keepers were introduced in 1864.

Real buff leather made of cow hides is very hard to get today, so I´m proud to offer you buff leather articles for the most authentic impression possible.
Jan Henrik Berger • Bentingstr. 10 • D-49477 Ibbenbüren • Phone +49 (0) 5451 / 742 95 • Fax +49 (0) 5451 / 896 331 • eMail: J.H.Berger@lederarsenal.com